Over Whaleback’s Eastern Notch
with
Dan & Graham
March 29, 2020 - Distance 19 km
Ready to Go from Juniper Ave in Kippens
Cross country skiing has changed since first gaining popularity in the 1970s. In the ‘70s you gathered a few friends together and headed off to ski whatever the backwoods had to offer. A Canadian Tire light touring ski package, complete with 3-pin boots and bindings cost you $59. That’s all you needed to explore the backcountry. But in the ‘80s and ‘90s things changed. Ski parks with nested loop trails became popular, skate skiing pushed classic aside and ski touring fell out of favour. But in recent years, backcountry ski touring has seen a resurgence as skiers head off with friends to explore new territory and boil the kettle.
In a recent off-the-beaten-track tour, DanR and I kicked off from 20 Juniper to climb Whaleback’s Eastern Notch and then returned home via the old “Around the Whaleback” marathon trail. Whaleback Mountain (Elev.1120’) is divided into three distinct sections: East, Middle and West.
While GPS is Often Used for Navigating a 1:50,000 Map Never Needs a Battery
The invention of the GPS has allowed modern day intrepids to eagerly embrace the outback. But, if you grew up in the pre-GPS era when map and compass were the tools of choice, it’s hard to break old habits. Whether you navigate by GPS or map and compass, it is essential to prepare a Route Card before you hit the trail.
Example Below: Consult 1:50:000 map to prepare Route Card in advance.This trip would be divided into 8+/- legs.
Route Card: Over Whaleback’s Eastern Notch (19 km)
(Route cards are usually done in landscape format to provide more space for leg description )
DanR Setting the Pace Across Tom Rose’s Farm
It’s taken several years of exploring to link up a series of old trails and secluded bogs that were once used by the early settlers of The Acadian Village (original name of Stephenville/Kippens) to get to the backcountry.
Blanche Brook Trail: A Scenic Undulating Old Woods Road Following the Brook
The Blanche Brook Trail originates at the old Stephenville Dump (2 km up the Gallant Street ext.). It provides easy access to the Kippens Bog and avoids the very busy snowmobile route.
One of Several Downhill Runs on the Blanche Brook Trail
(Little Pond Mountain in the Distance)
Backcountry skiing requires a variety of skills that are not often needed on groomed trails where excavators and grooming machines eliminate steep grades and tenderize the trail. DanR snowplows to reduce speed on a long downhill. His 80 mm wide steel-edged skis and backcountry boot/binding system provide excellent control in difficult conditions.
Enjoying the Wide Open Bogs Leading to the Eastern Notch
Heading for the black spruce woods that will lead us to the Notch between the Middle and Eastern Whaleback. Percy Pieroway, a good friend and co-conspirator on ski trail development back in the 70s, had a plan to develop downhill skiing on the Middle Whaleback.
Our BC Skis Are Rossi 80 mm…A Perfect Choice for Touring Off-the-Beaten Track
Rossi 80’s with steel edges provide the buoyancy required to break trail in 20 cm of new snow and the sharp steel edges give you the required bite when you encounter teeth rattling icy conditions on the Bluff Head Plateau. BC boots & Alpina BC Bindings are a good match for the skis.
Sniffing Out Leads Through the Black Spruce ... Notch to the Left
Skiing the perimeter of bogs is a SWEET experience as the edges are usually populated by black spruce forests that often provide you with a pathway to your destination. Our old touring buddy Jack Lamond loved skiing “thru black spruce”. In another life, he would have been with us.
A Corridor up to the Notch … But Not Without a Series of Herringbone Switchbacks
“Graham b’y, will you please HURRY-UP! I’ve been waiting for you all day! Pick-up the pace!”
The Ambiance of Whaleback’s Eastern Notch is Well Worth the Climb
Silent ...Scenic…Solitude…Peace & Quiet
Some map work (1:50,000) was required before heading out on this tour to review the elevation contours and link up off-the-beaten track trails. The map contours showed that western side of the Notch provided the best access. Although some herringboning was required, it’s an easy climb with BC waxless skis. Conditions: two-day old/transformed snow. No clumping despite the newness of the snow and full sun.
Note: If this tour was in unfamiliar territory a detailed route card would have been prepared.
DanR Shifts into Low Gear to Climb the Last Contour
A skill that has been lost by many domesticated skiers is the ability to analyze uphills/downhills and select a pathway to get you to the top, or bottom, efficiently. Traversing a hill is a technique often used by skiers to reduce the grade (either up or down) by skiing diagonally across the hill in a zigzag fashion. This technique conserves energy and allows you to get to the top, or bottom, without side-stepping.
Dan: “Let Me Take the Lead? After All, I Climbed This Notch Before You Even Moved Here!”
When silent-sporting in the Great NL Outdoors with friends, it is important to give everyone a chance to lead and break trail. There is nothing like kicking and gliding through 5-10 cm of fresh powder on a secluded trail. Of course in this narrative, I’m playing with poetic license when I say that Dan would not let me lead. We actually exchanged the lead role throughout the day. And if I reviewed his photos, you would find lots of pics of me leading the way, despite my complaining.
Lunch Time and Social Distancing ... Unfortunately That Means No Boil-ups
I can only imagine what that lonely birch tree has endured over the years when hurricane force winds swept in off the Gulf and then picked up speed as the assault squeezed through the Notch. It’s easy to see why DanR referred to it as the “Standing Dead”. (Pic: Crash Hill in Centre Background)
Covid-19 Dictates New Lunch Rules: Dan Takes Pic from His Perch 4 m. North of Me
Covid-19 has certainly changed the rules of engagement for boil-ups: No gathering around a steaming kettle to share hot tea and exchange freshly made muffins and cookies with your friends. But probably the most annoying thing is that most of my ski friends are hard of hearing so we can’t carry on a coherent conversation because we’re 3 ski lengths away from each other. As you can see from this pic, I can’t even read Dan’s lips because he’s 4 metres up the hill. But then again, I’ve got a great view of Crash Hill. And I didn’t want to share my kippers with him anyway!
Dan Pretends to be Reading a Map and that he Knows Where the Trail is Located!
The top of the Notch is a perfect saddle and somewhere up ahead is a moose trail. The contours on my map ... not Dan’s map ‘cause he doesn’t have one despite his confident posture, tells me that it’s not as steep on the east side of the Notch. So that’s where the moose trail must be.
Romaine’s Valley and the “Around the Whaleback” Marathon Trail is Just Below
Table Mountain (a.k.a. Pine Tree) in the distance and the moose lead is straight ahead and down over the lip. Hmmm...What are we gettin’ into?
Some Serious Side-Stepping Required
DanR and I were both amazed at how a moose can climb straight up the mountain. “POWERFUL”, is an understatement!
Even a Moose Has to Stop and Take a Rest to Get Over the Notch
The moose climbing the trail contoured to the SW to reduce the grade.The indentation in the snow (centre of the photo) shows where the moose had to take a rest. The trail just ahead of us is steep and straight down the fall line.
Map Shows Very Steep at the Top But Gradually Decreasing
There is only one moose trail to get up/down the steepest grade, but as soon as the grade is decreased the moose trail vanishes as they seem to dash off helter-skelter.
DanR Has Found a Lead - Marathon Trail 200 Metres Away and Closing
Skiing downhill through a mature forest presents a host of problems as you are always in the “route choosing” mode. But at the same time you must avoid trees. In most cases it works out. Dan is carrying considerable speed and he has to make a quick decision, or he’ll be a tree-hugger.
Escaping the Woods: We Intersect the “Around the Whaleback” Marathon Trail
Finally … I have a chance to take a selfie and get in the picture. Several times during the day I said, “Come on Dan, you have a camera! Take my picture!” But he flatly refused, so just to show that I was indeed on this tour I took a snap. Meanwhile, Dan is once again pretending to dig out his DRL map to see where we are. Next time: I’m leaving DanR home and taking a tripod so I can include myself in the tour. Check out our social distancing …4 metres plus! And we left from my house, so no sharing rides.
In 1986 Whaleback Hosted the NL Cross Country Ski Marathon on This Trail
This “Around the Whaleback” marathon trail was originally an old trapper’s trail to get into the country. It runs for 6 km behind the Whaleback down to the river. The trail continues on the north side of Romaines and then climbs up into the mountain. When I look back to the fall of 1985 when we widened the narrow, overgrown trail in order to host the marathon, we thought the new marathon trail would serve as an excellent route to expose skiers to the solitude of backcountry skiing. At the time, virgin forests stood tall and proud on the north side of Romaines River. The valley was pristine and served as a wildlife refuge. Little did we know that our well-intentioned efforts opened up a new snowmobile route that provided quick access up the valley to the Kippens Bog. While I am all for designated snowmobile routes to allow motor sport enthusiasts to enjoy the backcountry, it would be wonderful to have wilderness retreats where wildlife and silent sport enthusiasts could roam freely without being disturbed by the high-pitched whine of machines. But I digress!
If you enjoyed this tour, thanks for kicking and gliding along with us. Until next time…Stay safe and get out and enjoy some silent-sporting. Cheers, Graham & Dan
Map Compliments of Dan’s Garmin
